Tuesday 13 October
Unbelievably beautiful today. Frost this morning then bright sun all day. Autumn colours blazing away, gorse, heather and crocus along the sunken lanes. Today felt like walking on top of the world. Hard climb up to the O’Cebreiro plateau through the woods to the alpine meadows grazed by belled cows. Left bossy Castille y Leon today (“look at my big information board, walk on my new senda alongside this busy road, stable your horses in these new stable blocks…”) into wild Galicia with discreet distance markers to Santiago (135km tonight). Bucolic bliss near Alto do Pollo
Friday 16 October
The road is really crowded today as we have been joined by bus loads of tourigrinos-pilgrims who only walk the last 100 km. Some are bussed along the route where they hop out for a credential stamp at bars along the way. I wonder what they would have thought of the sign we passed a few days ago on a remote path en route to Dsmos?
Monday 19 October
We have arrived! 775 km from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela St James and the Field of Stars. Off to cracking open the cava!
Thursday 22 October
After a couple of days of reunions and farewells in Santiago we start off again on the 4 day walk to Finesterre – the ‘Land’s End’ of Spain on the western most peninsula.
Saturday 24 October
The sun shone as we walked through eucalyptus and oak woodland on the way to Finesterre with glimpses of the sea at Cee. Some new faces and some familiar faces on the way through forest and Moor to the coast. A lovely night in a tatty albergue in the woods with a warm welcome from a volunteer hospitalero who had walked many Camino himself and is walking next year from Rome to Santiago . He cooked us a fabulous meal which we shared with his kitten, a Taiwanese girl, an Italian girl, a Korean father carrying his 3 year old son, 2 Korean girls, a New York textile designer, and a German typeface designer. Most of us had started from St Jean at roughly the same time.
Sunday 25 October
Muxia: The end of the journey!
A perfect day’s walking and a perfect sunset in a beautiful town (much less tacky than Finesterre). We have walked 900 km mostly in sun and there has not been a day when I wished I was elsewhere, even when it rained or my feet were blistered or my back hurt. We have met some fascinating people from many nations walking for many reasons. We have eaten many pilgrims meals and I still like lentils and chickpeas.
P.S. Note from Warren who didn’t suffer from any blisters on the walk: prevention is better than cure! As soon as the first symptoms, appear protect your skin straight away with micropore or socks to prevent chafing . Don’t wait until you get a blister before you do something.